Why Croatia? Simple really. I was sitting on a rooftop in Hargeisa, Somaliland in January 2002, when I got news that my house in the UK had sold. I had already decided to quit Britain and was looking for a place to keep my books, that my friends could use, a refuge from my aid worker career. I went down to grab a (smuggled) beer from the fridge and my Kenyan colleagues were watching CNN, the only channel available to us. It was advert time and there is was, a stunning 30 second ad.
Croatia - the Mediterranean as it once was.Croatia. Stunning. Warm (or so I thought - after seven bura-filled winters, not sure I would agree), cheap and accessible (or so I thought - flights are a nightmare out of season). I did some preliminary research and I could afford the 2002 asking prices. A cheeky little house in an old town close to the sea would be perfect. I never imagined then that I would be a permanent resident and running a website about Total Croatia.
I didn't know anything about Croatia, never mind about Total Croatia, or anyone from there, but a Canadian friend had been living in Sarajevo and so I went to stay with her, and she agreed to help. It was August 2002, and beers were being consumed on a balmy August evening (love that city), and she asked me where I would like to buy. On realising I didn't have a clue, she took pen and paper and started making a list, explaining a little about each place. Number 1, Dubrovnik, biggest tourist attraction, number 2, Split, gateway to the islands, that sort of thing. She wrote down other names, some on islands, some not - none of them familiar to me.And after she wrote down the tenth place, she asked which one sounded best. I hadn't really been listening too hard, so I closed my eyes and pointed to the paper. My finger landed on number six.
Hvar.And that was the decision made. We left at 0300 on the Friday with her Bosnian boyfriend, Amko, driving, interpreting and being a general hero. We had to return Monday afternoon, so time was against us. As we took the first ferry at 0700 to Sucuraj, we stopped for a coffee. Amko, a man of many Malboro inhalations, but few words, finally spoke once the espresso had hit its mark.
"Jelsa is the nicest place on the island." More inhalation. And that was that, I decided that Jelsa was the place to be. My choice was made easier by the fact that there was only one house for sale in the town. We were told to be at the catamaran for 1800 on the Saturday to meet an older man in a straw hat, the owner. Antun spoke German so we had a channel of communication.Random does not begin to describe the house. It came in two parts, separated by a public right of way; one half had toilet but no kitchen, the other kitchen but no toilet. It was habitable (not for a honeymoon...), 30m from the main square, we loved it. An offer was made and accepted the next morning, a lawyer persuaded to prepare a pre-contract on a Sunday evening (should have seen that coming...), 2000 euro withdrawal from the bank the next morning, and we drove back to Sarajevo in triumph on the Monday late morning. It is now back on the market for a very reasonable 79,995 euro, one careful recent owner.
And then the internet cafe started reducing its hours, ditto the bank. A restaurant closed and the realisation that Hvar in August is very different to Hvar in January began to dawn. What had I done? And then I walked into the library and so began another happier and more permanent chapter in my life. But that is another story...
For those of you interested in an account of some of my travels, aid work and general bumming around, I have just started writing for Suite 101, no a range of topics, inspecting camel troughs in northern Somalia to revolutionary oil filters. And you can read about my teaching in Japan including my farcical teacher training Budapest and some travels in Gaza and Korea. In October 2010, I published my first book, Lebanese Nuns Don't Ski. For more information and to order the book, click on the link below.
For those of you wanting to know more about Total Croatia, the project and how you can get involved, there will shortly be a page here. Many people have asked how it is possible to go from an idea in the pub to a website of 450 pages in 7 weeks, 1,000 by Xmas. With the system I am using, it is easy, and I explain how here and find out more about Total Croatia and I hope you will get involved and help build the best online resource in English about Croatia.
And be met at the airport by an English-speaking driver - off to the beach in two mins!
Huge savings in your favourite Croatian haunts, as well as back home!
Total Croatia tourism offers
| The Total Croatia Blog A blog about Croatia, from tours and cruises, to visas and vegeta. |
| Your Croatia restaurant guide Looking for a good Croatia restaurant? Your comprehensive guide, powered by visitor submissions. |
| Activities in Croatia A guide to various activities in Croatia - a guide to trekking, climbing, fishing and more |
| Find your favourite Croatia beach! A comprehensive guide to the Croatia beach - family, sandy, romantic and nudist. |
| For nude beaches Croatia has a great selection A guide to FKK - when it comes to nude beaches Croatia has some of the best choices in the world |
| Find the hidden Croatia! An introduction to hidden Croatia |
| Buy your dream Croatia property A guide to buying Croatia property - from legals to agent recommendations |
| Croatia for kids Croatia for kids - the beach is all very well, but what else is out there for childen to do in Croatia? |
| Disabled in Croatia Being disabled in Croatia is more of a challenge than it need be, due to lack of information - click here for the most comprehensive guide in English! |
| Gay Croatia Your complete guide to Gay Croatia - gay and lesbian accommodation, clubs, beaches, meeting points, gay sailing and Zagreb pride |
| Total Croatia Shop Total Croatia Shop - for all your shopping needs. Looking for an Xmas present, travel guide or croatian map? It is all here. |
| Pictures of Croatia A selection of the beauty of the Adriatic - pictures of Croatia |
| Protecting the environment in Croatia Improving the environment in Croatia - two great new Swedish products to clean up the environment AND save you money! |
| Submit content on Croatia - your knowledge and opinions. Submit content on Croatia to help build a great interactive resource for all! Do you have a great photo, destination guide, interesting blog or want to hightlight an area of hidden Croatia? |
| The Hiroshima Diaries Budapest The Hiroshima Diaries Budapest - Classroom Carnage |
| Hiroshima Diaries Korea Hiroshima Diaries Korea - Taekwondo Tree Trimmers |
| Croatia City Card Introducing the Croatia City Card - discounts in Croatia on restaurants, hotels, taxis, shopping and more. Cashback from more than 900 stores. |
| Zagreb Inside Zagreb Inside - a local tour guide experience with a difference |
| For all your Croatia taxi needs Book your Croatia taxi before you leave and have an English-speaking driver meet you at the airport. All Croatian airports covered, as well as transers to Montenegro, Medjugorje and beyond. |
| Travel to Croatia Travel to Croatia, flights, ferries, trains, buses, sailing and taxis. |
| Croatia information General Croatia information, visas, health, currency, flags and more. |
| Accommodation in Croatia Accommodation in Croatia - hotels, hostels, resorts, private apartments and holiday homes. Even lighthouses! |
| About Total Croatia Some information about Total Croatia - who is behind it and why. |
| Total Croatia contact details Total Croatia contact details - we would love to hear from you! Send us an email or pop in for a beer. |
| Total Croatia newsletter Subscribe to the Total Croatia newsletter, and get the latest Croatia news and events. |
| Croatia pets Croatia pets - how to import your favourite four-legged friends into Croatia - a guide to the paperwork and the practicalities. |
| Croatia holidays guide Your detailed Croatia holidays guide - from Dubrovnik and Hvar to the National Parks and the magic of Cres. |
| Croatia map Looking for a particular Croatia map? Look no further - wide selection here! Historical maps of Croatia, old Croatian maps, economic, regional and city maps. |
| Weather Croatia If you mention sunny weather Croatia comes to mind with its 2724 hours of sun on Hvar Island alone. Video updates of the sunshine in winter, as well as daily forecasts and webcams (coming soon). |
| Pets in Croatia Pets in Croatia - how to import your favourite four-legged friends into Croatia - a guide to the paperwork and the practicalities. |
| Preserving Croatian dialects Preserving Croatian dialects - poetry from Pitve |
| Photo Blog A Photo Blog of Life on Hvar |
| Photo Blog A Photo Blog of Life on Hvar |
| Photo Blog A Photo Blog of Life on Hvar |